As soon as the snow melts, wild leeks poke their twin green blades through the rocky soil of hardwood forests, offering the observant forager a pungent spring treat.
Habitat
Leeks are particular in their choice of habitat, flourishing mostly on steep, rocky slopes, moist but well-drained. They leaf only in early spring, when the ground has thawed, but the trees have not yet shaded the forest floor with their leaves. They often grow in huge patches near seeps and streams, but these areas of ideal habitat are delicate and infrequent and should be treated gently.
Identification
Colonies of leeks are a welcome sight in the brown woods of April. Their smooth, glossy green leaves occur in pairs, in the approximate shape of rabbit ears. They grow up to ten inches long, with a central rib and a strange sparkling sheen. The bladelike shape is typical of plants in the lily family, which includes garlic and onions.
At the base of each pair of leaves, under the surface of the ground, is a white bulb with a beard of white roots, often connected to a second bulb, with its own pair of leaves. Bulbs and leaves smell and taste like those of tame leeks and can be used in similarly in soups, salads, and other dishes. Wild leeks grow more pungent as the season progresses. By the time the trees begin to leaf, the leek leaves are turning yellow, and their flavor becomes harsh. Soon the leaves die back.
In summer, the flowers appear, each plant bearing an inconspicuous little crown of white blossoms on a long stem. By fall, the flowers have been replaced by tiny, hard, spherical black seeds, still in a circular arrangement atop the slender stem.
Harvesting
Care should be taken in harvesting wild leeks. The forager should only cull from large patches and not take too many from each spot. Overharvesting can endanger the vitality of the patch and the following year’s harvest. Tread gently on the ground, which will probably have many sliding rocks on the surface.
In company with the leeks, a number of unusual and exquisite wildflowers are often found sharing their habitat and timeframe. Known as the “spring ephemerals”, many of these plants are endangered and should be treated with utmost respect. They are among the most breathtaking delights of the spring and include such beauties as trout lily, blue cohosh, Dutchman’s breeches, wild ginger, hepatica, dogtooth violet, and others.
In Appalachia, where farmers have traditionally lived off the earth, the sight of wild leeks, also known as ramps, has always been cause for celebration. In the absence of refrigeration and imported vegetables, people were always thrilled to get their first fresh greens after a winter of eating stored root vegetables. Ramps festivals still occur throughout the mountains, as the residents eat and honor this delicious harbinger of spring.
